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Explore Thailand
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 Informative Article Summary by Anny Redperz
This Asian country promises beautiful beaches, towering temples and unbeatable cuisine at a fraction of the cost of other popular destinations.
by Farhad Heydari
Thailand is magical: From its steep, paddy-lined mountainsides and lowlands speckled with dramatic hillsides to its idyllic islands of endless beaches and looming limestone bluffs, this is a country of unrivaled beauty. Add sepia-tinted temples, ancient relics from kingdoms of yesteryear and richly flavored cuisine, and it’s no wonder that Thailand draws more visitors than any other country in Southeast Asia. This alluring country also boasts golf, sugarcane beaches and world-class shopping, all of which make it a fabulous honeymoon hot spot.
Bangkok
The nation’s capital is a hectic metropolis that promises a full-on sensory experience. High-rise buildings are juxtaposed with low-lying, dusty outdoor marketplaces, and the country’s longest river, the Chao Phraya, winds through the city. There are also myriad palaces, historic squares and sprawling city parks.
Where to Stay: Escape all the hustle and bustle with a stay at The Mandarin Oriental, which sits on the banks of the Chao Phraya. The impressive tower houses 393 recently revamped rooms and suites that contain gorgeous Thai antiques and handmade silks, fresh-cut flowers and a private butler. Ask yours to arrange an on-site cooking class at the hotel’s 15-year-old teaching facility and learn how to master local favorites like crabmeat dumplings, red-curried prawns and banana fritters. Check out the hotel’s Bamboo Bar, which features leopard-print fabrics and nightly jazz, then have dinner at Sala Rim Namm, a mini royal palace located inside the resort; it offers a traditional menu and Thai dance performances. The hotel’s spa is now home to a new Ayurvedic center, which guests access via private boat. The intimate space features carved teak, an enormous lotus pond and more than 40 different treatments. There’s also a complimentary yoga studio and fitness center (rates start at $ 349; mandarinoriental.com/bangkok).
By Day: Hire a longtail (traditional Thai) boat for a tour of the city’s waterways, which are lined with temples and interspersed with locks and dams. You’ll pass homes on stilts, floating markets and vendors on boats. Ask your driver to take you north to Nonthaburi for a stop at the Old City Hall, an impressive building fashioned from teak, and the Wat Prasat temple, a jewel of muraled walls that is typical of the area’s architectural style. Also, don’t forget to visit the giant Bang Sai Orchid Garden.
After your tours, check out the city’s oldest and largest temple, Wat Pho, which contains the enormous Reclining Buddha statue that is nearly 150 feet long. Then visit the ornate Grand Palace, a sprawling complex that houses the lavish Wat Phra Kaeo and the Emerald Buddha.
Then it’s time to shop! Hit the always charming—and chaotic—Chatuchak Market, where more than 15,000 stalls sell everything from Thai silks to intricately carved wooden chests. For farm-fresh food, head across Kamphaeng Phet Road to the locally renowned Marketing Organization for Farmers Market filled with a selection of such exotics as stuffed baby crabs, fresh tamarind pods and candied catfish skin.
At Night: Once the lightning bugs start to flash, the city’s after-dark establishments come alive. At the Dream Hotel’s Flava Lounge, guests sip specialty cocktails and select stogies from a large menu of cigars. At the popular Bed Supperclub, ultramodern interiors are a backdrop to a colorful Mediterranean-Asian menu that changes weekly. After dinner, dance the night away at the spot’s adjoining club, which has a rotating lineup of internationally accomplished house DJs (dreambkk.com; bedsupperclub.com).
Where to Eat: No visit to Thailand would be complete without a trip to the floating market Damnoen Saduak to try Thai pancakes (a coconut tempura crepe, stuffed with coconut cream and a deep-fried banana). For a more refined meal, go to any of the eight restaurants at the Mandarin Oriental hotel. Its newly renovated China House is a dimly lit bistro with swish interiors and bold Mandarin specialties that draw the hip locals (meals start at ; mandarinoriental.com/bangkok).
Phuket
Three years after it suffered the worst tsunami in modern history, Thailand’s largest island has made what is, by all accounts, a miracle return. The area’s beautiful beaches are once again filled with sun worshipers, while solace seekers can explore the region’s rugged jungle interior.
Where to Stay: While the island is somewhat overdeveloped, with sprawling hotel complexes, there are a few notable choices. The recently unveiled Phuket Pavilions is an intimate resort perched 260 feet above the sea near Bang Tao Bay. The property’s 30 guest villas all feature naturally sourced wood and stone, large verandas, private infinity pools and floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the ocean or the valley. Each is equipped with satellite TV, wireless Internet access and iPods and docks. The resort offers in-suite dining, private kitchens and an in-room check-in and check-out service, so you never have to see another soul (rates start at $ 300; phuketpavilions.com).
By Day: Along the coast, stretches of picturesque white sand beaches like Nai Yang, Kata and Karon are dotted with chaise longues and hammocks where you can linger all day. If you get hungry, simply stroll to one of the many food stalls and point to whichever seafood appeals to you most. In these parts, shrimp, crab and saltwater fish are caught practically every minute and seasoned with a bit of lemon and a dash of curry. On the island’s northwest coast, the azure Andaman Sea laps up against the postcard-perfect beauty of Mai Khoa Beach. And it’s virtually guaranteed that your footprints in the sand will be the only ones.
Active types can take private scuba and snorkeling excursions to the nearby Similan Islands, via the yacht at the area’s new Sarojin Resort. Or visit the national parks for waterfall hiking, elephant riding and canoe safaris (day excursions start at $ 90; sarojin.com). Spa lovers score big at Aleenta Phuket Phangnga, a hideaway that offers holistic treatments in addition to yoga classes and straight-from-the-sea cuisine served on the beach (spa treatments start at $ 35; aleenta.com).
At Night: The sleepy beach vibe means there’s little in the way of a happening nightlife. Watch the glorious sunset over mountains and sea from your private veranda, then linger over a romantic dinner under a canopy of stars.
Where to Eat: Zone 3, a new modern-Chinese restaurant at the Royal Phuket Marina, offers an appetizing array of fusion cuisine and views of the enormous yachts in the harbor (royalphuketmarina.com). Laid-back lunches are best had underneath the shade of the giant fig tree at Sarojin’s Ficus restaurant, where traditional Thai dishes take center stage.
HuaHin
For the ultimate in sequestered romance, head to Hua Hin’s, a quiet easygoing area that’s a four-hour train ride south of Bangkok. Together with the neighboring town of Cha-Am, this area on the Gulf of Thailand is the country’s oldest resort spot. The region’s amazing offerings include endless championship greens, pristine beaches and one of the best spas in the world.
Where to Stay: Anchored by a crescent-shaped beach, the former fishing village is welcoming a myriad of boutique hotels. Newest among them is the Praseban Resort, a minimalist oasis of only 14 rooms housed in two low-slung beachfront villas. Each guest room features simple sandstone and wood furnishings, bright island fabrics and spacious balconies with dramatic ocean views. The property is nestled amid swaying palms, fragrant frangipani trees and flowering plants. At the center is a small infinity pool, surrounded by a teak deck dotted with cushioned chaises. The resort’s two small restaurants have limited open-air seating under a canopy-like roof and fresh seafood menus (rates start at $ 220; prasebanresort.com).
By Day: Before settling into a lounge chair for the day, tee off at one of 10 local golf courses, considered by aficionados as the best in the country. You can also explore the Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, a massive, geographically diverse protected area that envelops mangrove swamps, secluded beaches and enormous limestone mountains with intriguing caves. Trek inside the Phraya Nakhon Cave and you’ll see an ornately gabled pavilion that was constructed in the 19th century as a refuge from the harsh elements. Or take a tour of the nearby Klai Kangwol Palace. Translated as “far from worries,” the grand structure was built as the royal summer retreat in 1928 and is still used that way today. The ultimate “don’t miss” in Hua Hin is the Chiva-Som International Health Resort. The world-renowned spa offers an impressive array of holistic and Ayurvedic treatments ranging from traditional Thai massage to relaxing water therapies (spa packages start at $ 1,095 a night, and include accommodations, all meals, fitness classes and a massage; chivasom.com).
At Night: If you’re craving a hip scene, check out the Chill Pool and Red Bar at the new Alila Cha-Am hotel. The large lounge area encompasses an adults-only pool, multiple decks for kicking back and intimate areas perfect for spa treatments under the stars. The candlelit space also offers a large cocktail menu and yummy snacks (alilahotels.com).
Where to Eat: The Restaurant at Evason Hideaway Resort in Hua Hin offers a fusion and traditional Thai menu in a modern bi-level space. Those in the know have appetizers on the lower level at the Thai Bites Counter. Choose from deep-fried shrimp rolls with sweet chili dip, marinated prawns and peanut sauce and breaded shrimp cakes dipped in tangy plum sauce. Or order the Khong waang ruam, a selected assortment platter for two. When you’re ready for entrées, head upstairs to The Restaurant’s open-air mezzanine level and sample spicy noodles prepared in clay pots and steamed fish wrapped in banana leaves. Or opt for a Thai Curry à la Carte meal, in which the chef will mix and match your preferred dish from a sampling of sauces and ingredients (meals start at ; sixsenses.com).
All Aboard
There are few more lavish ways to explore the Malay Peninsula than by hopping aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express. The sibling of the venerated Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, this opulent rail journey was launched in 1993 and has remained one of the most exclusive ways of traveling the 1,262 miles between Bangkok and Singapore. The three-night voyage departs from the Thai capital’s Hualampong Station and meanders through Thailand and Malaysia, with stops (and hosted excursions) at the River Kwai and Butterworth (Penang), before arriving in Singapore.
The train offers three cabin classes that have in-suite showers and air conditioning. Out the window is an ever-changing panorama of rice fields, towering mountains and green hillsides. The two bars, one with an atmospheric outdoor observation car decorated entirely in teak, serve as the train’s social hub of the 22-carriage train. There’s also a boutique and a library stocked with books, magazines and board games. Depending on availability, massages and palm and tarot-card readings are offered.
But the pièce de résistance of the experience is the haute cuisine, served with imperial grandeur at two sittings each lunchtime and evening. Smartly clad guests dine on a fusion menu with dishes like medallion of lamb served with Indian-style tandoori sausage in a coriander and lentil jus, and Massaman Kai (Pak Dong), a traditional Thai chicken curry served with steamed rice and pickled vegetables. There is also meal service throughout the day, including in-room breakfasts and afternoon teas (rates start at $ 2,050 for three nights, all inclusive; orient-express.com).
Where to Stay in Bangkok
Many people on a 2 or 3 week vacation in Thailand only spend a few days in Bangkok before heading to the beaches of the south or the sights of the north like Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. You can certainly see and do a lot in a short amount of time in Bangkok, but my top tip for a short stay would be to ensure you stay within comfortable walking distance of a Skytrain or metro stop. This will save you a lot of time and hassle and the air-conditioned comfort will be welcome respite from the heat and humidity. It also gives you a lot of freedom for independent exploration of the city without having to rely on organized trips and tours.
As you might expect from the capital city, there is a vast array of hotels and guest-houses to suit every budget. Whilst the Bangkok traffic jams can be horrendous, the Skytrain, metro and river make it relatively easy to get around and see the main sights. If you are only in Bangkok for a short amount of time, you should give consideration to choosing accommodation close to transport links.
Banglamphu
Banglamphu is a firm and long established favourite with backpackers and budget travellers from all over the world heading for the cheap accommodation of the Khao San Road. Despite its undeniable backpacker image, the area has undergone rejuvenation in recent years. Banglamphu is now popular with young Thais and a number of trendy bars and eateries have appeared in the vicinity. Probably the main advantage of staying here is the proximity to the Chao Phraya River, the Grand Palace and Wat Po.
Chinatown
The colourful area of Chinatown in the old Sampang district of Bangkok is centrally located with relatively easy access to the Chao Phraya River, Ratanakosin (for the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo) and the main train station at Hualamphong. The two main road thoroughfares are Thanon Charoen Krung (New Road) and Thanon Yaowarat. Not surprisingly, there is an abundance of Thai-Chinese traders in the area reflected in the markets, restaurants and gold shops.
Siam Square
If you stay here in the hope of finding a central square along the lines of Trafalgar Square in London or the Grand Place in Brussels, you will be disappointed. However, this is probably what most residents would consider to be the downtown area and home to many multi-national companies and plenty of glitzy shops and high class hotels. Served by the Skytrain station of Siam Square (or Central as it’s often referred to), the area is convenient for Jim Thompson’s House and Lumpini Park.
Silom
Bordering Siam Square and just south of Chinatown, Silom has the benefit of good access from the Skytrain which in turn makes it easy to get to Saphan Taksin station from where it is just a short walk to catch a ferry to many of Bangkok’s top sightseeing spots or to enjoy a tour of the river.
Sukhumvit
The Sukhumvit area in the east of the city is easily accessible from both of the Bangkok airports. Sukhumvit also enjoys excellent Skytrain links and a metro station for fast and easy access to the main train station at Hualamphong. Accommodation ranges from budget to luxurious with a decent array of mid-range hotels. With plenty of nearby shopping opportunities and proximity to night-life areas this a good base for any stay in Bangkok.
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